Saturday, August 27, 2016

Peru




17 August 2016, Santiago and Flight to Lima, Peru
In the morning we went to Mercado. Mercado is a big market that sell almost everything. It had a “tourist” section that sell souvenirs and seafood restaurants. It also had some counters that sell tour packages. We didn’t spend so much time here. After bought Moai (easter island statue), we decided to back to hotel and get our luggage. We took turbus from Alamameda bus terminal to Santiago Airport. Our flight by Skyairlines from Santiago, to Lima was at 15.10 pm.



17 August 2016, Lima, Peru
We arrived at Lima Airport at 17.00 pm. Our flight from Santiago took about 4 hours and there’s two hours time different between Santiago and Lima. First thing we did was to find Scotia ATM to withdraw money. Because from the tips we read, never exchange money at airport money changer as it has the worst rate. The ATM was on the second floor. We withdrew soles and US Dollar. After we had the cash, we took Uber to the hotel, it cost 40 soles. We chose to stay near the old town and Continental Hotel was one of the hotel within walking distance to the old town. The trip from airport to hotel took almost 1 hour because of the traffic jam almost along the way from airport to the hotel.

After checked in, we directly went to pedestrian shopping street Jiron de la union (to have dinner), where we can find many shops and restaurants. We decided to try Chifa. Peru was known for its Chifa, a Chinese – Latin American fusion cuisine. There were over 9.000 chifa restaurants in Lima. As expected, we liked the food, the taste was so good. We tried the fried rice, sweet and sour chicken served with fried rice and fried wonton for the appetizer.

After had dinner, we strolled along the street, though it was quite late at night, there were still so many people on the street and all the shops were still open. Beside the commercial shops, there was a beautiful church, Iglesia de La Merced. It was a historical church since the first Holy Mass of Lima was celebrated here.

Jiron de la Union street was a long street, just following the street, at some point we will arrive at Plaza Mayor. Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas is a big, beautiful and historical square in Lima. It is the place when Jose San Martin announced Peru’s independence from Spain. The Square was surrounded by many important buildings, such as Catedral of Lima, Archbishop’s Palace (just next to the Catedral), Municipal Palace (across the Catedral) and beautiful Presidential Palace.

Then we walked Jiron de la Union street at the opposite direction and we arrived at San Martin Plaza. But since it was already late of night and we still have half day tomorrow, we decided to back to hotel and get some rest.
 
18 August 2016, Lima, Cusco and Ollantaytambo
After simple breakfast at the hotel, we started our Lima walking tour. Since San Martin is the closest to the hotel (less than 5 minutes walk), we decided to start from there. San Martin Square is one of the historic square in Lima. As its name, this square is dedicated to Jose San Martin, the leader for Peru’s independence. In this square we can also find the famous Gran Hotel Bolivar.

Francia Square was the next destination. The most important building in this square is Recoleta Church. Its blue facade makes an outstanding appereance, compare to other surrounding buildings in this square. It’s a nice place to have a short rest, sitting on the bench under the tree.

Then we continued walking to Parque de la Expostion, passing the Real Plaza Shopping Center. Just across the Parque de La Exposition, we can see the magnificent building of Palace of Justice. We can not enter the building, but the façade and garden in front of it, make it worth a visit. As for Parque de la Exposition, it’s a nice park where we can also find Lima Art Museum and Italian Art Museum.

From Parque de La Exposition, we walked to Parque Universitario. The park was named after the Natioanl University of San Marcos. We can see the university near the park. Inside the park, there is a clock tower that plays Peruvian National Anthem every day at 12 pm. 

Next was Basilica San Pedro. It’s a very beautiful church in Barouque style. It has rich and detailed ornaments. It’s one of the most important building in Lima. There’s no fee to enter this church.

Not far from Basilica San Pedro is Mercado Central (Central Market). It sells everything. There were so many shops and stalls in this area. We tried the rice pudding at one of the street vendor. It taste good, it had soft texture and sweet taste. This area also connected with China Town (Barrio Chino). The area was marked with typically china type gate, with the specific shape and red color. The ground was decorated with tiles that represent twelve Chinese Zodiac. Actually we planned to have lunch here, since it was a bit early (11.30 am) the restaurants did not serve lunch until 12 pm, they only serve breakfast menu.

So, we continued to Plaza Mayor. This Plaza is charming both in night or day time. And we were just in time for the changing guard at Presidential Palace. We can watch from behind the fence. It was crowded, so many people were watching the parade enthusiastically. We could not watching the parade until it finish, because we only had few time before our flight to Cusco and we still need to have our lunch, and the fastest option was KFC at San Martin.

Then we hurried back to the hotel, got our luggage and find Uber to the airport. The traffic was also bad but we can arrive at the airport on time. Our flight to Cusco was at 15.10 pm. We took Avianca Airlines.

We Arrived at Cusco Airport at 16.17 pm. From the airport, Nancy (our tour operator) picked us up. She was very helpful, make sure that we had enough cash in soles (we stopped at money changer). Since we took our train to Machu Picchu from Ollantaytambo and the train departed very early in the morning (06.10 am) and we must be there 30 minus prior the departure time, we decided to stay at Ollantaytambo. Because if we stay at Cusco we need 1 hour 45 minutes to get to Ollantaytambo and that means we need to wake up at 3 am. So we decided, it would be less risky to miss the train and we will have more energy to climb Machu Picchu the next morning, if we stay in Ollantaytambo. And since we would do our Machu Picchu as a day trip from Ollantaytambo, we would go back to Cusco after finish Machu Picchu at the same day, and also there’s capacity limit for the bag (max 5 kg/bag) that we can carry in the train, we decided to put our luggage at our hotel in Cusco.

After we dropped our luggage, Nancy brought us to terminal collectivo location. Collectivo is usually a small bus where the collective passengers share the cost of the journey. There are no scheduled times for collectivos, they will wait until full before heading off. But in our case, the collectivo was a car, with capacity of 7 passangers. And lucky for us, we were their last passanger. From here, we went on our own (without Nancy) to Ollantaytambo. The driver dropped us off at the Ollantaytambo terminal, which was a square with some restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops and minimarkets.

We decided to have dinner first before going to the hotel. After dinner, we bought some snacks and water for us to bring to Machu Picchu. After that we went straight to the hostel, Chayana Wasi. It was a good hotel, with good location (very close to the main square and not to far from the Ollantaytambo train station – 15 minutes walking). Good price EUR 35 per room per night and children free of charge. The room was clean and the shower had a good hot water. They also can prepare packed breakfast because we will leave the hostel very early in the morning.

19 August 2016, Machu Picchu
The Big Day! We woke up early in the morning at 4.30, got our packed breakfast, hot drinks (coffee and coca tea) and off we go! Our train was at 6.10 am. We must arrive at the station 30 minutes before departure time. We took Expedition Train. The train’s interior was very nice, with large window and skylight. The view was also very beautiful. We got drinks and huge cookies. And they also play traditional Peruvian songs that we like it so much.



After 1 hour 30 minutes ride, finally we reached Aguas Calientes. From train station, there was already someone who met us (Nancy already arrange all the things) and guided us to the bus terminal (bus to Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu). From here, he introduced us to a Lady that later put us in the queue. The queue was really really long. Lucky for us, the lady put us in the middle of the queue, so we didn’t need to queue at the very end of the line (we couldn’t even see the end of the queue line). After 30 minutes finally we were at the bus. The bus ride to Machu Picchu entrance took about 25 minutes. Again, the view was breathtaking. We can see Machu Picchu on top of the mountain.

The bus stopped at the entrance of Machu Picchu. At the entrance area, there was a small resto, luggage storage and the most important: toilet. Because there’s no toilet in Machu Picchu site, no wonder, there was a long line in front of the toilet. We can also find and hire a tour guide in this area. Since our package already include tour guide, so we just need to find our guide. Though there was crowded with visitors and tour guides, we can find our guide easily because they organize the tour very neatly. In fact, since we arrive at Aguas Calientes, everything was very organized. Our group was English speaking group with max 15 people. 

After we met the tour guide, now we must pass the ticket control. We need to present the ticket and passport. Then, we officialy started our tour. After short briefing about Machu Picchu, we need to hike until we reach large plateau where we can see the classic view of Machu Picchu. It was the only part that needed hiking, the rest was very easy. And yes, when we arrived at the plateau, we can see the magnificent Machu Picchu. It was the best spot to take picture. Though it was full of people but with lots of patience and quick shot, we managed to get our best photos.

Machu Picchu is one of the most amazing places in the world. The locals believe that if they visit Machu Picchu, it will give them strength. That is why we can see lots of local people come to Machu Picchu. Until now, the purpose of Machu Picchu is still not very clear. Some think it was for religious purpose, others think it was for astronomical purposes.

Machu Picchu was built at the golden era of Inca Empire (15th – 16th century), which was under the ninth emperor, Emperor Pachacuti. How they built it, it is still a mystery. We still don’t know how they can lift all the super heavy stones up to the hill. The world knows about Machu Picchu because an American explorer Hiram Bingham III re-discovered Machu Picchu in 1911.

The guided tour lasted for 2 hours. After that we explored Machu Picchu by ourselves. At around 1.30 pm, we decided to go back to Aguas Calientes. As our tour guide already informed us, that after 1 pm the queue line for the bus was very long, we must manage our time wisely so we will not miss our train. He suggested that we at least spare two hours before our train departure time (One hour waiting for the bus to Aguas Calientes, 25 minutes for the bus ride and 30 minutes we must at train station before our departure time). So, when we exit Machu Picchu, we saw a very long line to the bus. We spent time by eating our snack and finally it was our turn to go to the bus.

We had our late lunch in one of the resto near bus terminal. There were so many restaurants around here, as well as souvenir shops. After lunch, we went to the market next to the train station and we ended up buy quite some stuff. Alpaca was a must buy. We bought a nice alpaca sweatshirt for 30 soles (USD 10), an Incan design table runner (15 soles), a dream catcher (8 soles) and an Incan design scarf (10 soles). We spent our time there until our train come.

This time, we got the Vistadome train (since Expedition train was already sold out). It was a bit expensive than Expedition. We got a small size spinanch quiche with drinks. In the middle of the ride, there was a performance and fashion show by the train attendants. They wore alpaca products and we can buy those items.

When we arrived at Ollantaytambo Train Station, there was already someone who was waiting for us and guided us to the bus. This time we got a big bus. The bus dropped us at Plaza San Fransisco, from there we need to walk to our hotel for about 15 minutes. It was really cold. Cusco has a very large difference temperature between day and night. At day time it can reach up to 22C and at night it can drop to 2 C. It was almost 11 pm when we reached our hotel, Montecristo Hotel. All we need was a good hot water shower and good sleep.


20 August 2016, Sacred Valley Tour
We had breakfast at the hotel. It was a simple breakfast with the same menu everyday. But the staff at the reception was so nice and helpfull, they even change our room to a better one because we told them that our room was really cold.

Today we join the Sacred Valley tour. Exactly at 8.30, a lady from the tour came picked up us. She guided us to Plaza San Fransisco where the tour bus was already waiting for us. It was a big bus. The bus made one more stop to pick up another passanger then we were ready to go. Our tour guide spoke in English and Spanish.

Before we went to Pisac, our tour stopped at a traditional market. Our guide said it was cheaper to buy items here compare to other place. We only buy an alpaca sweatshirt which had the same price with the one we bought at Aguas Calientes market. We also made photo with girl and llama, just need to pay 1 soles. After that we went directly to Pisac. Approaching the site, there was a small ticket office and also a toilet (as there is no toilet on the site, better use the toilet here). We bought the Partial Cusco Tourist Ticket – Sacred Valley. It includes four attractions in the Sacred Valley: Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chincero and Moray. The ticket is valid for 2 days and cost 70 soles.

The Sacred Valley was an important area for the Incas because it was the center of agricultural, spiritual and political for them. Even until today, this area still provides agricultural product for the city. Though there are many archeological sites in Sacred Valley, but usually people visit the two main sites, Pisac and Ollantaytambo.

When we arrived at Pisac, there were already so many tour buses. From the parking area, we need to walk to the site. At the site, we can see the stunning terraces, where the Incas used to plant corn, potatoes and quinoa. Keep walking forward, we arrived at Inca cemetery, embedded in the hillside. It was a big cemetery. After that, we climbed the hill to see the ruins and get a splendid view of the valley. Besides of the ruins, Pisac is also well known for the artisans’ market.
From Pisac, we made a quick stop to a silver jewelry workshop in Urubamba. They were demonstatring how to make the jewelry and the meaning behind the designs. Some of the designs based on Inca’s such as, Inca Calendar and Inca cross.
Then we had our lunch. We had a buffet lunch at El Maizal. It was a nice restaurant with a nice setting. We can choose to sit inside the restaurant building or outside under the huts. They had salad bar, main menu counter and dessert counter. The food was good. It cost 40 soles per person (but for us it was already include in the tour price). While enjoying our food, we were also enjoying a beautiful music performance with traditional Peruvian music.
Now we all had enough energy to continue our tour. Next destination was Ollantaytambo. We got off at the bus parking area, then walk to the site. From the entrance, we could see the magnificent view of the terraces (and also could imagine, it would not be an easy walk). When all the tour participants ready, we started our hiking. We climbed the stairs until we reached the first stop, a wider terrace with some stones that had a neatly position. The stones made a perfect natural seat! We sat nicely (to caught our breath), while listening to our guide. The terraces at Ollantaytambo were built for farming and irrigation. They also made a fortress. From the terraces we can see the valley where Incas use as storage. They stored their agricultural in the store houses. Also, if we take a good look at the valley, we can see that the rock formation looks like a face. It’s believed as the face of Wiracocha, the god-the creator. And if wee look at the valley as a whole, we can easily see an image that looks like the god is carrying sacks on his back.
Then, we climbed further until we reached the Temple of the Sun. Temple of the Sun was functioned as a calendar for the Incas. There, we can see big stones with its perfect shape. With their 50 tons weight, it’s still remained as a mystery how they can get to their position. Temple of the Sun is an an unfinished temple, for unknown reason.
Though there are others interesting ruins, but we only visit Temple of the Sun because we did not have enough time to explore this site thoroughly. We got back to our bus. Some of our tour participants finished the tour at Ollantaytambo and took the train to Machu Picchu. And for the rest, we continued to Chincero.


Chinchero is the center of Peruvian weaving. First we stopped at one of the shop to see the textile weaving demonstration. It was really interesting to see the process from the beginning, first the will clean llama fur with natural detergent, then the will make the fur into yarn, after that they will dyed them with natural colorings then dried them before use for weaving. While watching, they also served us with coca tea. After the demonstration, we can purchase their products in this shop. 
From the shop, then we went to the church. It was quite hard to get to the church, though it had much lesser stairs to climb (compare to Ollantaytambo). We thought maybe because it was higher (about 3700 m above the sea level), or maybe because we already ran out our energy after climbing Ollantaytambo before. But finally we managed to reach the plaza where the church was standing. It was a colonial church that built on top of the remains of an Incan Palace. Unfortunately we could not get inside the church but we still can see through the door (which was opened for a short time) the beautiful paintings and ornaments. On the way to the church, there were lots of shops. But because it was already night time, most of them were closed already.

Chincero was our last stop before we headed to Cusco. The bus dropped us at Plaza San Fransisco. We had dinner at KFC Plaza de Armas and also bought some for our tomorrow tour.

21 August 2016, Chincero, Moray and Salt Mine Tour, Cusco city
Today, we join Chincero, Moray and Salt Mine Half Day Tour. The tour picked up us with small van from the hotel to the big bus at Plaza San Fransisco. Our first stop was Chincero, and like yesterday, we stopped at textile weaving demonstration. Though we already watched last night, we did not mind at all to see it twice (Because it was really interesting and entertaining). This time, after the demonstration, we did not go to the church. We directly went to Moray.
Moray, lies between Pisac and Ollantaytambo. It is a very unique place to visit. It has a deep bowl shaped with circular shape terraces. It is still unkown why the Incas made those shape. But some theory said that it have been used as an agricultural research station. Their depth, design, and their orientation with regard to the sun and wind are all telltale signs that they have a specific purpose. Because of the different conditions at each level of the terraces there is a difference in temperature of 15 °C from the top to the bottom. It is thought that the Incas used the terraces and the different temperatures to test crops and experiment with them. (source: the only peru guide)
Still in the site, there is another place that interesting to see. It has a same circular terraces, but we did not know the purpose of it. We could not get information about that.
From Moray, we went to Salt Mines. The salt mine is located in Maras, a small town not far from Moray. We had our packed lunch in the bus (we brought our oen lunch as we were already told that we did not get lunch and the bus did not stop for lunch). The entrance fee was 10 soles. Our bus parked at the parking lot, then we walked to the site. It was a hot sunny day. When we reached the site, it was really amazing to see the white terrace pools of salt. We can even walk through the salt flats. Just be careful not to step into the pools. We can also purchase the salt (and other stuff) in the local market here.
Salt Mines Maras was our last stop. Our bus brought us back to Cusco. We arrived at around 3.30 pm. Still have enough time to explore Cusco city. We started with Plaza San Fransisco, though we had been there so many times but only now we could really “see” the plaza (usually when we arrive, it’s already dark, after finish our trip). Because this plaza has become a meeting point for so many tour bus, it’s a busy and crowded plaza. In this Plaza we can visit San Francisco Church. It was built in 15th century.
Cathedral
From Plaza San Fransisco, we walked to Plaza de Armas. Plaza de Armas is the main plaza in Cusco since Inca time. It was called Huacaypata. It surrounded by beautiful and historical buildings. The Cathedral is the most important building in this square. It was built on the Inca Temple foundation. Inside the cathedral we can see one of the most famous paintings The Last Supper by Quechua artist Marcos Zapata.

Church of de La Merced
The other important building is the church of La Merced. It is also has a very beautiful ornament on the façade just like the Cathedral. We can climb the stairs inside the church to get a panoramic view of Plaza de Armas. Besides those beautiful buildings, we also enjoy sitting on the bench in the square. The square was decorated with a nice garden and fountain. Like all square in Cusco, Plaza de Armas also full of people.

 


From Plaza de Armas, we went to Koricancha (Temple of the Sun). Koricancha was the most important temple in the Inca Empire. It was dedicated to the Sun god. The temple complex consists of four main chambers, each dedicared to different gods, the moon, stars, thunders and rainbows. The Spanish used the foundation to build the Santo Domingo Church.


As it was already 6 pm, and all the attractions were closed, we decided to stroll at Plaza de Armas. We found a small Chifa restaurant not far from the Plaza. The food and price was good. It was getting colder and colder, so we decided to back to the hotel.  We bought some souvenirs at the shop near our hotel. Tonight was our last night at Cusco. We flew back to Lima tomorrow morning.

22 August 2016, Cusco to Lima, Explore Lima
In the morning, Nancy met us at the hotel. We still need to pay her for our Moray & Salt Mines tour, because it’s not included in our package. We also booked our taxi from her, which was much cheaper (only 10 soles-and she even paid the fare for us! So it was a free ride!) compare the fare from our hotel. Our flight from Cusco to Lima was at 08.40 am. We arrived at Lima Airport at 10.05 am. We put our luggage at the luggage storage in Domestic Terminal. Then, again, we took Uber to get us out of the airport.

This time, we wanted to explore Miraflores area. We asked the Uber driver to drop us at Parque Kennedy. It costs 50 soles. We began our walking tour at Parque Kennedy, from there we walked along Avenida Jose Larco with its shops, restos and hotels until we arrived at the Larcomar, a nice shopping malls by the ocean. From Larcomar, we continue walking from park to park, such as Parque Domodossola, Beato Marcelino Champagnat Park, Parque Intihuana with its fountain and Parque del Almor with its huge kissing sculpture and curve shape walls covered with mosaic tiles. Actually, there was nothing much to see in Miraflores, just some parks and a nice shopping mall in Larcomar. But the walking path was nice, with Pacific Ocean view.

From there, we walked back to Parque Kennedy then went to Calle Gonzaled Prada and Avenue Petit Thouars. In this area, we found there were so many art and craft markets. All type of souvenirs, we can find it here. The price was quite similar with the price at Cusco. After roamed in the market, we had a quick snack time at Dunkin Donuts in Calle Gonzales Prada. After that, we took Uber to back to the Airport. Our flight to Amsterdam was at 20.00 pm. We arrived at Amsterdam at 15.25 the next day.



Expenses:
Air Tickets 
Air ticket from Amsterdam – Santiago and Lima – Amsterdam : EUR 869.49 (child) + EUR 1064.85 (adult)
Air ticket from Santiago to Lima : USD 540 (2 adults + 1 child)
Air ticket from Lima to Cusco (return) : USD 142.37 (adult) + USD 127.03 (child)

Machu Picchu : USD 740
(train peru rail + Machu Picchu entrance + Sacred Valley tour + Airport transfer + transportation from Cusco to Ollantaytambo return)
Peru rail Expedition USD 57 (adult) + USD 29 (child)
Peru rail Vista dome USD 77 (adult) USD 39 (child)
Machu Picchu entrance : PEN 128 (adult) + PEN 65 (child)
Bus ticket from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu : USD 24 (adult) + USD 12 (child)
Tour & Admission
Tour Moray & Salt Mines : PEN 30 + PEN 30 + child free
Entrance ticket Sacred Valley (Moray, Pisac, Chincero and Ollantaytambo valid for 2 consecutive days): PEN 70 + child free up to 9 years old
Entrance Basilica Catedral Cusco : PEN 25 + child free
Entrance Qorikancha : PEN 15 + child free
Entrance Compana de Jesus : PEN 10 + child free
Maras Salt Mine entrance : PEN 10 + child free

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