Thursday, January 5, 2017

Jordan




20-25 December 2016

Day 1 : Amsterdam – Amman
Try to escape from cold, for this winter holiday we were going south. As we didn’t have much time to arrange for visa, so we searched for counry that no need visa or only need visa on arrival. Jordan is one of the country that give Indonesian visa on arrival. So, Jordan was the country we spent our holiday.





Our flight supposed to depart early in the morning at 7.10. But since it was winter, the plane was covered with ice and needed some times to remove it. So we stayed in the plane for more than 30 minutes. We are afraid that we will miss our connecting flight. Luckily, our connecting flight from Vienna was also delayed. But again, in Vienna, we need to sit in the plane for more than 30 minutes before it took off. We arrived 1.5 hours late in Queen Alia Airport Amman.

This was the first time we took a private tour since our arrival. As we wanted to cover Jordan from north to south and we searched it was not easy to move from one city to another, we decided to take the tour. We also calculated the price and time and found that the private tour was worth it. Actually we tried to find group tour, but it seems it was not common in Jordan, unless for some area only such as Petra.

At the airport, the tour representative had already waited for us before the passport control. He took care of the visa and made sure we meet our driver after that. Now, we were with our driver who will accompany us in all of our tour. On our first day in Jordan, the tour just picked us up at the airport and dropped us at the hotel. We stayed in Ocean Hotel, which location was not really convenient, except if you want to buy jewellery. We can only find one Lebanese restaurant near our hotel. So we ended up had our dinner there, at Tanndureen Restaurant. We ordered some Lebanese food such as Samakeh Harra (spicy fish), Fattet Dajaj (rice with yogurt and chicken), Warak Inab (graped leave stuffed with rice – as appetizer) and grill Kebab. They served bread and water for free. The food cost JD 38.

After dinner, since it was quiet late and there was nothing to see near the hotel, we decided to back to the hotel.

Day 2 : Amman – Umm Qais – Ajloun – Jerash 
On this second day, we went north. Our driver picked us up at 8.30. It was quiet a long journey, more than two hours, to reach Umm Qais. Umm Qais is the site of ancient Greco Roman city of Gadara. We can find many ruins that still in a good shape, such as the colonnades and the theater. Besides lime stones they also used black basilica stones, so we can see some parts are white and some parts are black. From this ruin we can see the 3 countries: Jordan, Syria and Israel.



From Umm Qais, we went to Ajloun Castle. Ajloun Castle was built in 11th century by one of Saladin’s general to repel the Crusader threats to north Jordan. It was built on top of a hill 1100 meters above sea level. Ajloun Castle is one of the greatest examples of Islamic military architecture.



The castle was surrounded by dry moat. Inside the castle, there was a small museum where we can see some artifacts. From the top of the castle, we can see panoramic views of the Jordan Valley.
It was almost 2 pm when we finished the tour at Ajloun. We had our lunch at local restaurant. We ordered chicken Shawarma, they served it with French fries and salad. We must eat very quickly because we still have one place to visit and since it was winter time, the closing time was earlier.


Our last destination for today was Jerash. Jerash ruins are said to be the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy. Inside the site, we can see many amazing ruins. Hadrian’s Arch that was built in 2nd century, was one of them. Next to Hadrian’s Arch, there was Hippodrome, a Roman era stadium. Continued walking, we arrived at another amazing ruins, the Oval Plaza. It consists of 160 Ionic columns. There were also some temples, such as Temple of Artemis and Temple of Zeus, but we did not have time to visit, since the officer told all the visitors that it was closing time and we need to leave the site.   


Day 3 : Madaba – Mt Nebo – Bethany – Dead Sea
Today, we leaved the hotel at around 9 am, and going south. After two hours, we arrived at Madaba, known as the city of mosaic. In Madaba, there was St. George Churh, home to the famous 6th century Mosaic Map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land. Two millions pieces stones, covers the floor of the church.
 

Not far from St. George church, only 20 minutes driving, there was Mount Nebo, another historical site. Mount Nebo is the mountain from which Moses saw the Promised Land before he died. It is also the the presumed site of his death and burial place. In this site, there was a Byzantine Basilica which is now have been incorporated into the structure of modern church building, known as the Memorial Church of Moses. Inside, we can see the magnificent Byzantine mosaics. Outside the church, we can see the sculpture of Serpentine Cross, a symbolic of the bronze serpent taken by Moses into the desert, and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.

From Mount Nebo, actually we supposed to go to Karak. But after the tourist attack four days before, the tour organizer decided to cancel and change it to Bethany (we need to pay the different of the ticket fee). Bethany Beyond Jordan is the site where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. The driver dropped us off at the ticket office. After we bought the ticket, we waited for minibus that will take us to the site.


The minibus stopped at the parking area, and from there we walked to the site. The guide led us and gave us some explanation. Our first stop was the Elijah's Hill. The small hill has the ruins of three churches, three caves and three baptism pools. Then we walked to the spot where Jesus was baptized. After that we continued to part of Jordan River where we can dip our feet in it. If you bring a bottle, you can fill it from the river (no need to buy at the souvenir shop J).The river is also a border between Jordan and Israel. It is so close that we can see people visiting the site from Israeli site. As we went to the river, we passed a modern Orthodox church dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Our last stop was souvenir shop. Then, we rode the same minibus backed to the ticket office area.

After visited many historical places since morning, now it’s time to relax and swim in Dead Sea. Our tour included swimming and lunch in Dead Sea Spa Hotel. It was a good thing to access the dead sea from private beach hotel, since after swimming we need hotel facility to clean our sticky body J. We had our lunch first. It was a buffet and the food was good, especially the dessert. After that, we headed to the beach. Though the name is Dead Sea, actually it was a lake. Due its high level of salinity (33% salt), it would kill most forms of life, that’s what make its name. But water in Dead Sea is mineral rich water, and the oxygen level is also high in this area, make it a healing place, even since Cleopatra time.

We left Dead Sea at sunset time. We drove straight to Petra and arrive at night time. We stayed at La Maison Hotel. 


Day 4 : Petra – Little Petra
Today, we visited one of wonders of the world, Petra. According to the brochure, it is not known precisely when Petra was built, but the city began to prosper as the capital of Nabataean Empire. Petra was founded along the ancient trade routes between Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean Sea. The earthquake and changes in trade route, made the downfall of Petra. It was abandoned.and became a lost city until in 1812, Johannes Burckhardt, a Swiss explorer with the local guide found it.

After breakfast, we went directly to Petra Archeological Site. Our hotel was within walking distance to the site, only 5 minutes walking. As our driver told us, we need to buy the ticket by ourselves (he gave us the money to buy the tickets, JD 50 per person) because if the ticket officers know we are in a group tour, they will insist that we must to take a guide (another JD 50). At the entrance of the site, there was the Petra Visitor Center. Here, we bought our tickets. Also, there were information center, toilet and souvenir shops.

After we bought the tickets, some guys were offering us to take the horse to the entry gate. First, we were doubt to take it since we didn’t sure it was included in the ticket price. But after checked the ticket and also the guys said they only wish for the tip, we agreed to take the horse. Though from the visitor center to entry gate was not far, but it was a good experience riding a horse surrounded by giant rocks. Made us feel like Indiana Jones J.

The entry gate was the final stop for the horses. They can not go in to the site (unless the horse cart). We gave JD 2/person as the tip. From the entry gate, we enter the gorge. We walked between huge rocks. It was only one path, so we just need to follow the path… until we arrived at The Treasury (Al Khazna), the most magnificent façade in Petra, the icon of Petra. We can see how amazingly they built the façade, carved directly into sandstone cliff faces. According to the legend, it’s the place that conceals a pharaoh’s treasure.

From The Treasury, we continued walk in the path (though we can also take a camel ride – in front of The Treasury, there were many guys offering camel ride). We passed The Theatre, the only theatre in the world carved into the rock. We can not enter the theater, just see from outside.

Not far from The Theatre, we can visit the Royal Tombs. There were four tombs in this location, the Urn Tomb, the Silk Tomb, the Corinthian Tomb and the Palace Tomb.


From the Royal Tombs, we hike a bit to The Church. We can only see the ruins and the mosaics floor. Along the way since the Royal Tombs we were followed by a young boy who was very persistent, asking us to take donkey ride to the Monastery. Since we need to climb stairs with 900 steps to reach the Monastery, we decided to take the donkey ride. We negosiated and got the price for JD 5 / donkey.

On the way to the Monastery, we passed the Colonnaded Street. It would have been one of the principal shopping streets in Petra. The way to the Monastery was not easy. We need to hold on tight and balance our body. The donkey seemed to know the way. It didn’t need man to lead them (we held the donkey rope by ourselves, the man only walked behind us). The donkey stopped at one point, and from that point we need to continue by foot. It took around 10 minutes walking (and climbing) until finally we reached the Monastery (Ad Deir). As for its name, it used for religious purposes.

Just across the Monastery, there was a small café. This café had a perfect location. After climbing the stairs, sure ones will need some rest and drinks. And it was perfect, to rest while admiring the magnificent façade of the Monastery. Plus the café also had wifi J. We enjoyed our lunch (croissant that we bought in supermarket before) with the cardamom coffe. We rested quiet long there, before we climbed down. This time we didn’t take donkey ride :)


 

We finished exploring Petra at around 2.30 pm. It was raining at that time. Our driver met us in front the Visitor Center. Though it was raining, we still continued our tour to Little Petra (Siq al Barid). It was only 15 minutes driving from Petra. Compare to Petra, this site was very quiet, only us as visitor at that time. Entering the site, we were welcomed by a beautiful façade on the right side. From the façade, there was a path between the rocks formation. Though it was small compared to Petra, still this site was also worth it to explore.

As the rain was getting heavier, we decided to back to the hotel. We made a quick stop at supermarket to buy some snacks and drinks.

Day 5 : Aqaba – Wadi Rum
We started our tour at around 9 am. We headed to Aqaba, coastal town in Jordan. It is famous for diving and snorkeling activities. It is also a good base to explore southern Jordan. We can see The Red Sea with its bordering countries: Egypt, Israel, and Saudi Arabia. We did not have any particular places to visit in Aqaba. We’re just driving, enjoying the view and add some geography knowledge.


At around 1 pm, we met our tour guide for Wadi Rum jeep tour. We got three hours explore the Sahara Desert by Jeep. We visited Lawrence’s House (the house where Lawrence of Arabia supposedly lived), Khazali Canyon (where we can find drawings and writings, which date back thousands of years), The Mushroom (mushroom shaped rock), Little Bridge (with its magnificent shape) and of course the beautiful Sand Dunes.

It was our second experience in desert (the first was in Morocco), but it always gives us a memorable experience. The vastness of the desert always gives us somekind of peaceful feeling.





We finished our tour exactly at 4 pm. We drove back to Amman. The driver took the highway all the way to Amman. It took precisely 3 hours to arrive at our hotel (the same Ocean Hotel). Tonight was Christmas Eve and our mass began at 10 pm. We decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant, Diwan Al Sultan Ibrahim Restaurant, which apparentely was a famous restaurant in Amman. Though we must wait for a long time but the food was very good. And the best part, they served a very good dessert for free.

From hotel to the church we took Uber. It only 15 minutes ride. Jabbal Amman Church had English mass, and though it was Christmas Eve and we arrived a bit late, we still have space to sit.

Day 6 : Amman city tour : Citadel, Roman Theater, Souk
Today was our last day in Jordan. Our plane schedule was at 3.55 pm. We still had half day to explore. Though actually our tour did not include Amman city tour, but the tour organizer was kindly enough to give us the city tour as complimentary. So, we gladly accepted their offer to pick us up in the morning, showing the city and drop us at the airport.

Our first destination was the Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal’a). Amman Citadel has been continuously inhabited since Neolithic period. It was fortified during the Bronze. It has been known by names like Rabath Amman and Philadelphia.

The first thing we saw was the Temple of Hercules. The most famous part of this temple is a hand of Hercules. Then we walked straight and arrived at Jordan Archeological Museum, where we can see some artifacts from ancient time.

Not far from the Museum, there was Umayyad Palace. Now, we can only see the remains of the waiting area. Behind the waiting area, we can see the palace ruins. Then, we continue to the Byzantine Church, we can also just see the ruins. Besides the ruins, because of its location on top of the hill, Amman Citadel is a good place to see the panoramic view of Amman.

From Citadel, we went to the Roman Theatre. It was built between 169 and 177 AD. It was a huge theatre with capacity of six thousand audiences. It is still functioning until today.

We still have time, so the driver took us to see the souk. It’s not like souk in Morocco, where there was a huge space with many shops and stalls, Souk in Amman was just a shopping street with small shops that sells everything.

Before he dropped us off at the airport, we made a stop to souvenir shop at King Abdallah Ben Al Hussein Street. There were many souvenir shops and our driver stopped at Black Iris Handicrafts. We bought mosaic with tree of life pattern – the most famous pattern in Jordan. Besides the souvenirs, they also sell Dead Sea products such as mud and salt.

After that we went straight to the airport. Our flight was at 15.55, we arrived in Vienna at 19.00.
Then from Vienna we departed at 20.05 and arrived in Amsterdam at 22.05


Expenses
Golden Gate Tour : EUR 1485, including:
- 3 nights hotel in Amman (JD65/night)
- 2 nights hotel in Petra (JD 43/night)
- Lunch and swim at Dead Sea Spa Hotel (JD 40 adult, JD 20 child)
- 3 hours Jeep Tour at Wadi Rum
- All entrances
- Visa USD (JD 40 / USD 56)
- Airport transfer

Flight (Austrian Airlines) : EUR 1299.25

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